奇峰三千 張家界
2019-05-09
都說湖南地界山高水險,出土匪的地方,竊不以為然。東晉人士陶淵明曾作《桃花源記》,早早為這裏正了名,給世人留下了無窮的念想和嚮往。余幼時嘗讀此文,每每陶醉,心裏一直為桃花源留了一塊地方。前不久遊張家界,心裏認定就是這裏莫屬了。
據說張家界是畫家吳冠中1979年來這裏作畫時發現的,當然有人有異議。不過他1980年1月1日在《湖南日報》“朝暉”副刊刊登了一篇題為《養在深閨人未識——張家界是一顆風景明珠》的小文,引起了震動,卻是不爭的事實。此後名人效應,張家界打着吳冠中的名牌做宣傳,讓一方寶地昭然天下,婦孺皆知,並於1982年9月成立了中國大陸第一個國家森林公園,“張家界國家森林公園”。1982年9月我正好乘坐飛機前往美國開始了留學生涯,踏上了不歸路,對張家界未聞其名。不過後來斷斷續續,或讀或聽,知道了有張家界這麼一個地方。再後來就是如雷貫耳了,以至於非去不可,終於去年初秋成行,了卻了心愿。
張家界因漢代名臣張良在此地隱居而得名,“奇峰三千,秀水八百”。這次我們住在武陵源鎮,花了4天時間幾進幾齣,上上下下將天子山、黃石寨、袁家界和楊家界用腳丈量了一個遍。此處風景絕非浪得虛名,吳公在文章里描敘:“石峰石壁直線林立,橫斷線曲折有致,相互交錯成文章,”到底是畫家,畫意十足:)放眼望去,筍峰怪石高聳,野而不粗。連綿不絕的絕壁上點綴着小樹叢,平添蔥綠清涼之氣。加之洞壑幽深、流泉潺潺,委婉溪流里蜻蜓蝴蝶曼舞,與遊人戲,錯以為是將天上的盆景搬到了人間。放聲長嘯,回聲環繞不絕於耳,豪氣干雲。來到此處何需知漢,遑論魏晉,做一個閑散之人是最好的選擇。難怪吳公道:“為了探求繪畫之美,我辛辛苦苦踏過不少名山。覺得雁盪、武夷、青城、石林……都比不上這無名的張家界美。就以峨眉來較量,峨眉位高勢大,仗勢嚇人,其實並沒有張家界這麼突出的特色,至少大多數美術工作者將會同意我的看法的。”
時間證明我們大家都認同了這個觀點。
【English Translation:
It has been rumored around that Hunan province was where
bandits were hiding among steep and dangerous mountains. But I don’t
believe it, because back to East Jing Dynast (266-420 AD) one of the
most famous poets Tao Yuanming praised Hunan in his masterpiece “The
Peach Garden”, and left the world with infinite yearning of a fantasy
land. I liked reading this beautiful article and felt intoxicated since
I was a boy. I kept a place in my heart for “The Peach Garden”.
After visited Zhangjiajie, I immediately regarded this place as my
“Peach Garden”.
Zhangjiajie was discovered by one of most well-known painters
Wu Guanzhong in modern China in 1979. Of course, some people disputed
this fact. An indisputable fact was that in January 1, 1980, he
published a short article introducing Zhangjiajie in "Hunan Daily",
describing it as living in purdah without being recognized. This drew a
tremendous attention nationwide. Of course, Zhangjiajie used his
celebrity fame as a brand to advertise its reputation to the public.
Soon it was named as China’s first National Forest Park, "Zhangjiajie
National Forest Park", in September 1982. Coincidently in September
1982, I flied to the United States to pursue my graduate study and
stayed since. Gradually from reading and hearing, I got to know
Zhangjiajie. Until one day I finally realized that I must visit this
place. Last autumn, my wish became true.
Zhangjiajie was named after Zhang Liang who was a renowned
premier of the Han Dynasty (202 BC-220 AD) and lived in seclusion here.
Zhangjiajie is famous for its gorgeous mountains and water lands.
During our visit, we lived in the “The Peach Garden Town” for 4 days.
We climbed ups and downs, and covered all four major areas of the Park,
including Tianzi Mountain, Huangshi Village, Yuanjia Village and
Yangjia Village. The scenic landscape well fits its reputation. Wu
Guanzhong wrote in his article: "The stone cliffs and pinnacles are
upward like linear lines, which are engraved with horizontal cracks that
are intersected like paintings." It was not surprised he described
that way because he was a painter :) Looking far, bamboo like peaks and
rocks shot up everywhere and looked so wild with delicacy. Cliffs were
dedicated with small trees and bushes, adding green color and cool
taste to the landscape. Caves were deep inside and spring streams
flowed gurglingly with dancing dragonflies and butterflies above, which
seemed to make fun with visitors. Such place only exists in the
Heaven! Standing here, a long-loud-heroic halloo could be echoed by the
mountains around without end, one simply wanted to stay forever and
forgot about the rest of the world. No wonder Wu Guanzhong wrote: "In
order to explore the beauty of painting, I have searched hard over many
mountains, such as Yandang, Wuyi, Qingcheng and Shilin, and fell like
none of them matching Zhangjiajie. Using Emei Mountain for a
comparison, it is humongous and pretty scary, but it does not have
prominent characteristics of Zhangjiajie. I think that at least most
artists will agree with me."
When time goes by, we all agree with his point.】
征服天堂
1. 武陵源門. The entrance near “The Peach Garden Town” to the Park.
2.
3. 天子山. Tianzi Mountain
4. 天子山索道。 Cable Car,Tianzi Mountain
5.
6.
7.
8. 天女散花. Celestial Beauty Scattering Flowers
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14. 迴音壁。The Echo Wall.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19. 十里畫廊採藥老人. An old herb picker in Ten Mile Gallary.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24. 、《西遊記》里的花果山取景於袁家界金鞭溪。The Golden Whip Stream.
25.
26. 袁家界乾坤柱,《阿凡達》中的“懸浮山”哈利路亞取景於此。Avatar Halleluhah Column, Yuanjia Village.
27. 袁家界天生橋。 Natural Arch, Yuanjia Village.
28. 天生橋。 Natural Arch.
29.
30. 取道楊家界匪窩烏龍寨。A slit towards Wulong Bandit Village, Yuanjia Village.
31. 楊家寨天波府,曾經是土匪頭子住的地方。解放初土匪頭子呆在這裏不肯下來,解放軍奈何不了他,後來還是他自己下來自首的。The Heaven
Mansion, Yuanjia Village. There was a story about this place. When The
Liberation Army marched here in 1949, a bandit head was hiding on the
top of this pinnacle. There was nothing the army could do about him,
until one day he climbed down himself to surrender.
32. 傍晚。想體驗一下吳冠中當時在這裏作畫時的心境。Sunset.
謝謝觀看
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